Planting Time: Autumn, April /May.
Aspect: These bulbs grow best in a sunny position or under deciduous trees where they receive winter sun. Some protection from strong winds is also desirable. They can be grown in pots as well although we only recommend one year in pots before they are planted out. This is because daffodils are hungry feeders and they don't generally flower well the second year if left in pots.
Soil: Soil must be well drained. If you have heavy soils build your beds up so water can drain away.
Fertilizer: Daffodils/Erlicheer are hungry feeders so ideally, large amounts of decayed organic matter (eg: sheep manure) should be dug in a month or so before planting. Use a complete fertilizer & blood and bone as well at planting. After flowering top dress with blood and bone or a complete fertilizer to feed your bulbs for next years flowers.
Depth & Spacing: For large bulb varieties plant 12-15 cm apart and 15 cm deep,. Small size bulb type varieties like Hoop-petticoat daffodils more shallow and closer together. In pots plant just below the surface.
Watering: Water thoroughly after planting. Keep moist. Water regularly during growth and flowering.
After Flowering Care: Remove spent flower heads and fertilizer with blood & bone or a complete fertilizer. Keep watered until leaves start to turn yellow. Do not remove leaves until completely dead. Daffodils store their energy for next years flower after this years flowers have finished until they die down.
Trouble Shooting: Very few problems are encountered by home gardeners. However two problems can occur - Basal Rot can occur in the soil, particularly when large quantities of high nitrogen fertiliser have been used, or in storage when temperature is too high. Destroy bulbs with any sign of rot above the small hard section where the bulbs scales emerge. If the rot occurred in the ground, daffodils should not be replanted in the same spot for about 5 years.
Leaf Scorch: This fungal disease affects bulbs in warm, humid areas. The fungus is found at the top of the bulb scales so that emerging leaves are infected. The leaf tips are reddish and scorched, and later on brown spots appear further down the leaf. Eventually the tissue around these damaged areas goes yellow. Remove and destroy the affected leaves and spray copper oxychloride once a fortnight if symptoms persist.